Crazy Bangkok

Morning light. Bangkok

Crazy Bangkok.
Today Carl and I went into town in the car. We went down some driveway, past a temple that spanned either side of the road to the river at the end. Towering above us to the left was a tall tower block which is one of the most expensive places to live here in the city.
It's hard to describe the temple.
On the right was some sort of altar and in front of it ten rows of chairs with white cotton covers on them ready for an audience. On the left was a large gold leafed building. A popular one apparently.  for people who want to gain " merits". Thinking there might be a Buddhist Piggy Bank of some sort. No one there this morning.
But just beyond the temple was a farmyard. An army of beautiful cows and a thousand cockerels. Looked after by an elderly monk in a saffron robe.

And beyond that was the river.  High and running fast at the moment. Where there was this open air restaurant, making green papaya salad and this pungent soup and lots of fried noodles. The plastic tables ran along the river in and amongst these square boxes on stands that turned out to be internment boxes for the ashes of dead ones.

We dropped off the car for a service and took a taxi into town where we went to an exhibit of old photographs of Siam.

Everyone is wearing black in Bangkok in respect for the King who died a week ago. All the billboards have photos of him. All the Thai TV stations are running footage of newsreels of his life.
Carl told me it would be harder to spot the Toms and Pretties. because in a world out of mourning the Toms are clearer because they wear black. But we still saw many Toms and Pretties, walking round hand in hand. The lady boys or Kathoeys are good in black or in color. And then there were the schoolboys graduating in their school uniforms with these strange overcoats of white organza with gold trim. The couple we saw were wearing heavy make-up. Lipstick, the lot.
As we tried to cross over a street from one mall to another we were held back by policeman. Carl said it would be a "royal on the road" moment. It would probably be the princess and since it was a mark of disrespect to have feet above her head, all the trains and walkways were shut down until her cavalcade passed by.

noodles, noodles

fruits, I think

pickles. with the King on the TV

That night we came back out to wander the night markets and the bars of the Patpong. We sat and had a drink whilst about twenty girls in tiny shorts and platform shoes and little t-shirts danced on these high counters.
Carl explained that these were girls who lived in the country and would do these shifts to make money to send home to their families. Almost a part of growing up, like a national service.

grasshoppers and crickets

Then we went to the gay bar where we had another drink and watched the shows. we only saw three numbers because everything was closing early because of the King. One with acrobatic boys and some fabric hanging down in orange loops. One with painted boys moving slowly so the flowers on their bodies came alive. One with eygptian overtones and a few rather oversized Pharaohs.
Because of the King the boys were all wearing black undies. I think I can say that I was a little relieved.
We got a motorbike taxi home because the taxis were all taken.
There was the driver then me then Carl. All on one motorbike. Carl turned down couple of drivers because he thought the size of their girth might make him fall off the back.
I was in-between terrified and terrified.

We were coming down this main road and Carl said loudly from behind me, " Just to let you know, he is going to cross four lanes of traffic now. then he's going to do a u-turn, then he's going to cross another four lanes."
It was like being on a rollercoaster with fumes.













Lots of stray dogs. Noise. Humidity. Bowing. Thick black hair. Kindness.

nighttime drink on the rooftop terrace.